Tony Fese, Ask the Expert: Tony Fese Indianapolis, IN

Tony FeseAsk the Expert: Tony Fese

Wine wholesaler's role includes education

By Jenny Elig Posted: August 27, 2010

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As with the plot line of many of his favorite plays, Tony Fese's introduction to the world

 of wine was by happenstance. He was touring with a theater company and was out of a

contract for three months. That's when he started working at Kahn's in Carmel and "just loved it."

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Tony Fese, wine consultant and owner of Free Market Wine Group, a wine and spirits distributor,

checked the "nose" -- or aroma -- of a wine during an Aug. 11 tasting at Fleming's Prime

Steakhouse & Wine Bar in Indianapolis. "There's so much great stuff," he said. - Joe Vitti / The Star

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Matsu tempranillo wines from Spain come with labels showing subjects whose ages reflect the

 wine's age. A tempranillo pairs well with steak. - Joe Vitti / The Star

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Tom and Claire Zmak, wine directors at Payless Liquors in Carmel, receive a sample of one of

25 Spanish wines offered by Tony Fese during a tasting at Fleming's. - Joe Vitti / The Star

Now a wine consultant and owner of Free Market Wine Group (www.free marketwinegroup.com,

 (317) 915-8060), Fese also formerly worked at National Wine and Spirits as a wholesaler.

He also ran D'Vine, A Wine Bar, for five years.

"I've done a little bit of everything," Fese said. "I love what I'm doing now. I love being able to

choose my brands and go out and find thoughtful wines and thoughtfully produced wines and

 pick what I'm going to sell."

Fese talked to Taste about being a wine consultant, his favorite states for wine and his "go-to

vintages."

What does being a wine consultant entail?

What I do now in owning a wholesale company, I get to sell to every retailer and restaurant

and every grocery store in Indiana. I like to think of it as consultation, education and sales --

not necessarily in that order. You have to help people be able to learn.

What is the next big thing?

I think the next big thing is old things, really. I think it's reminding people that French wine

is still fantastic. We've got this fantastic wine-producing region -- don't overlook that. I think

the next big thing is the resurgence -- the whole anti-French thing is starting to chill. There's

so much great stuff. Finally, French producers are understanding what American consumers

want on a wine label.

What is your favorite state for wine?

I think there's really cool wine in lots of states. Something that gets overlooked a lot is Michigan

wine, particularly Michigan riesling. Traverse City is right on the 45th parallel -- you're talking

about the same growing conditions as rieslings from the Northwest and wines from France.

I think Michigan is cool. If our climate continues to change, it won't be a big deal to see wines

 from the Midwest. California is the king, and there's no ifs, ands or buts. It's got the right

mix of artistry and climate and maritime influence.

You like David Mamet. What wine would you drink when you're watching, say, "Glengarry Glen Ross"?

Maybe that's going to call for an upscale chardonnay. It needs to be complex, sometimes

misunderstood, like Pollini Mont Riche, from Burgundy. That's a tough one.

Other than Wine Spectator magazine, what are some good resources for beginners

who want to learn about wine?

I've told this to all my employees for the last 10 years, I recommend everyone buy

"Windows on the World Wine School" by Kevin Zraly. It's a great book for beginners.

What are some of your go-to wines?

Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Rose 2009, carignane,

grenache, cisault, syrah. It's now OK to drink pink wine -- if it's good pink wine. This one

is beautifully crafted, lightly salmon in color, floral nose, wild strawberry and raspberry and

tons of depth. Then Matsu El Picaro Tinto del Toro 2009 tempranillo, available at Cork

and Cracker, and Fleming's.

It has a beautiful purply color with a touch of cedar, anise, black fruit, and spice on the

nose and full of ripe black cherry, densely mingled with moderate tannin and soft oak

with a long finish; awesome with a well-marbled strip.



Call Star reporter Jenny Elig at (317) 444-6762.

 

Understanding that the Wholesaler is the "Professor" teacher for the Liquor Stores,

Resturaunts, and Bars in the Wholesalers Territory when selling their wines.

Great article about Tony Fese.